Overview
The peak is called Minapin as well as Diran. It is situated in Rakaposhi and Haramosh mountain region near the Minapin, Hinarchi and Baultar glaciers and is easily accessible because of the Karakoram Highway. There is confusion about its height but now all agree that it is 7,272m. Height, it is one of the fascinating peaks that dominates the Gilgit valley and adds special color to its otherwise rugged beauty.A three-member Austrian expedition, which included Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell, decided to try its luck on Diran in 1968 after being refused permission to climb Kampire Dior peak. It set up camp 1 at 4,800m. Big crevasses, inclement weather and deep snow is recorded between camps I and II. It was from camp Ill that the party was able to reach the peak which it termed as a “big summit plateau”. The 1958-British expedition to Diran peak failed to climb it from north-west face because its leader, E.G.C. Warr and a member, F.C. Hoyt, were struck by storm and disappeared when only 300 feet from the summit. In 1959, a German Karakoram expedition, under the leadership of Hans Jochen Schneider, wanted to carry out a geological and geophysical survey in Batura glacier area. It was refused permission. Consequently, it turned its attention to Rakaposhi area. On the 9th June, one member, Erwin Stocker, and one porter reached an 18,000-foot-col situated to the north of Diran. Subsequently, the party could reach a place which was less than one thousand feet short of north-west face of the summit. In 1964, an Austrian expedition from Salzburg attempted to climb the peak from the north-west face but was unsuccessful because of bad weather and danger of avalanches. The party had only three climbers. In 1965, a Japanese expedition of Kyoto Mountaineering Federation attempted to climb the peak. Earlier, in 1963 two of its members had reconnoitered the peak. The party was only 250ft from the summit on north-west face when it had to abandon the climb because of ‘strong winds and whirring snow.
Checklist
- Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, mouthwash.
- Hair brush or comb, hair ties, barrettes/bobby pins.
Deodorant.
- Shampoo and conditioner.
- Sunscreen and face lotion with SPF.
- Night time Moisturizer/Lotion.
- If under any medication, enough stock
Included/Excluded
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The base camp services for the expedition include a flight from Islamabad to Skardu and back. There is a Jeep drive from Skardu to Askoli and return, with porters or mules to carry luggage where the jeep cannot reach. Pick-up and drop-off services from the airport to the hotel and vice versa are provided. Participants will enjoy a 3-night stay at hotel in Islamabad with bed and breakfast included. The expedition includes the royalty and permit from the Pakistan Government, maps for trekking and climbing, and porters carrying up to 20 kg of personal baggage. Climbers are provided with three meals a day and comfortable accommodation in a hotel, lodge, or tents. At the base camp, each individual gets a mattress and pillow, along with facilities like a dining tent, kitchen tent, communication tent, toilet, staff tent, tent for Pakistani base camp staff, store tents, tables, chairs, and all necessary cooking gear. Twin-sharing tents for members, experienced and well-trained cook and kitchen helpers, a heating system in the dining tent and other necessary tents, a solar panel/electricity generator, medical and first aid kit, and a professional and experienced tour guide are also included. Additionally, all taxes and fees required for necessary tools, as well as a farewell dinner, are covered.
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The services do not cover airfare for international flights or the Pakistan visa fee. Personal climbing equipment like sleeping bags and oxygen masks are not provided, nor are minibars during hotel stays or travels. Distinct items for individuals, such as single occupancy rooms, may incur extra charges. Group climbing gear, including ropes, ice screws, snow bars, EPI gas, cooking pots, and others, is also excluded. An insurance policy for mountain climbing rescue and evacuation, which is mandatory, is not included. Lodging and meals after the base camp, as well as meals in Islamabad other than breakfast, are not covered. Any costs arising from the necessity of an early conclusion or summit attempt, such as additional hotel nights, hotel meals, and evacuation expenses, must be borne by the participants. Costs resulting from unforeseeable delays beyond the company’s control (Force majeure) are not included. Finally, personal communication expenses like phone, fax, or email from Pakistan to the home country are not covered.
Tour Plan
Day 01
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 1 |
Arrive at Islamabad and transfer to hotel |
Hotel |
Day 02
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 2 |
Drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 1-12hrs |
Hotel |
Day 03
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 3 |
Drive to Minapin 5-6 hrs 2012m |
Hotel |
Day 04
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 4 |
Trek to Hapakun 4-hrs 2804m |
Camp |
Day 05
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 5 |
Trek to Tagaphari 3-4hrs 3261m |
Camp |
Day 06
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 6 |
Trek to Diran Peak base camp 5-6hrs 3650m |
Camp |
Days 07-26
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 7-26 |
20 days for climbing |
Camp |
Day 27
| Days |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 27 |
Trek down to Tagaphari |
Camp |
Day 28
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 28 |
Trek down to Minapin and drive to Karimabad 45minutes |
Hotel |
Day 29
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 29 |
Full day explore Hunza valley |
Hotel |
Day 30
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 30 |
Drive to Besham 9-10 hrs |
Hotel |
Day 31
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 31 |
Drive to Islamabad 6-7 hrs |
Hotel |
Day 32
| Day |
Activities |
Overnight |
| 32 |
Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight |
Hotel |
